Karadeniz_005 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

Karadeniz – Istanbul, Turkey

Karadeniz_006 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

Karadeniz Restaurant

(90)  212 258-6290
Başka Şubemiz Yoktur
Istanbul, Turkey

OPEN HOURS: 
12:00pm  7:00 pm – daily

After visiting the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, we walked around the corner to a very touristic arcade bereft of the food options we’d come to expect as our due in Istanbul! The market was a small passage full of shops selling higher quality handcrafts (for the most part), at very high prices with only a few places worth.  We were going to write off the whole market when ….

Towards the end of the passage we came upon a group of men eating some exceptionally yummy looking food, and us being quite hungry at the time, started staring and wondering where did they get their delectable dishes!  Not a minute passed when the men, with true Turkish hospitality, asked if we wanted to try it!  Of course we did 🙂  After a single scrumptious sample, we got the convoluted directions and after a short walk (and couple of wrong turns) we ended in a closed alley with a few local cafeterias, of which  our destination – Karadeniz – was one.  Oh how lucky we can sometimes be 🙂

We ordered the kiremitte kebap, a lovely stew of tomatoes, herbs an eggplant;  – that dish what we had sampled from the men in the arcade.  The Çoban Chopped Salad and a Pide Turkish pizza.

If you are in the area, and wish to eat like locals, then a side bar at Karadeniz is a must.

Karadeniz_005 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   kiremitte kebap
Karadeniz_002 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   Çorba, a red lentil soup with lemon
Karadeniz_004 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   Çoban Chopped Salad

Karadeniz_001 Karadeniz  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

 

Alma_CTG_019 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena

Alma – Cartagena, Colombia

Alma_CTG_003 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena   trio of ceviches (octopus and shrimp, tilapia Peruvian style and tilapia with rocotto)

Alma

(57) 5 681 0050
Calle de la Universidad, # 36-94
Cartagena, Colombia

www.almacartagena.com

Located in Hotel Casa Sana Agustin, a beautiful colonial house turned hotel, on one of the prettiest street corners in the old city; Alma’s speaks to the true colonial past of this wonderful city.

The menu shares many favorite Peruvian classics, with a mild influence of Colombian & Asian cuisines.  Peruvian cuisine is quite in vogue throughout Colombia, thankfully.

The restaurant is open pretty much all the time, features courtyard dining and a lovely bar that opens during the evenings.  Add in excellent service, cool AirCon and good wifi speed, and Alma quickly becomes the place to hide during the heat of the day.  A great place  to have a good coffee, bite of lunch and get some work  done while visiting Cartagena.

 

Alma_CTG_006 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena   Aji Miso marinated Chilean sea bass, grilled sweet chili shrimp, seaweed, and coconut miso sauce
 Alma_CTG_004 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena   Salmon tiradito with pink peppercorns, scallions, sea salt and Spanish olive oil
Alma_CTG_008 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Alma_CTG_010 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Asian tuna tar-tar tossed with ginger, onions and soy sauce served with avocado mash, papaya mole and yucca chips
Alma_CTG_014 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Alma_CTG_012 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Alma_CTG_019 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Alma_CTG_015 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Alma_CTG_016 Alma   - Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena Colombia  Food Colombia Cartagena
Corabastos_005 Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota

Corabastos – Bogota, Colombia

Corabastos_005 Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota

Corabastos

(57) 1 453 7188 Av. Carrera 80 No. 2 – 51
Bogota, Colombia

www.corabastos.com.co

OPEN HOURS: 4:00 – 12:00 Daily

 

The largest vegetable, fruit, cereals and grain supply market in Colombia, and the largest we have visited in the world. 420,000 square meters  with 57 warehouses and 6,500 vendors. A daily movement of 12.400 tonnes of produce.  Visiting Corabastos makes you ask how there could possibly be a hungry person in this world.  There is SO MUCH FOOD!

If you can, the best time to go is about 7:00am.  Corabastos is not tourist friendly, so never go alone.  Also keep in mind to dress down so as not to attract attention from the occasional pick pocketer; keep your wallet in safe place and hide your camera when not shooting.

If you actually intend on buying food, remember this is a whole sale market.  The smallest amounts sold are individual crates or boxes.  You can hire a porter for a few thousand pesos to walk with you and bring your boxes along for the journey.

If you are a serious market-eer, then it is well worth the trip.  The sheer scale and smell is something we have see nowhere else.  Try imagining 30m x 50m of nothing but carrots 3m high!  Corebastos is on the edges of Bogota, about a one hour plus drive from central areas.

2885580354_73ce926c25_z Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota   (above photo © Victoria Holguin)  to be approved

4430411412_ac8c646dc9_b Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota   (above photo © Victoria Holguin)  to be approved
4429650719_95514aa7c4_b Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota   (above photo © Victoria Holguin)  to be approved
Corabastos_002b Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota
Corabastos_004 Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota
Corabastos_006-598x1024 Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota     Corabastos_001 Corabastos  -  Bogota, Colombia Bogota Colombia  Markets Colombia Bogota
Ciya_009 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

Çiya – Istmbul, Turkey

Ciya_002 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

Çiya Restaurant

(90)  216 30-3190
Caferaga Mah. Güneslibahce Sk. 48/B  –
Kadiköy, Istmbul, Turkey

www.ciya.com.tr

OPEN HOURS:
11:00am  10:00 pm – daily

Located in Kadiköy, on the Asian side of the Bospherous, Çiya is not an obvious place, but is quite renowned.  We had the luck of chatting with Yonca Erol manager of the Sekerci (Confectioner) Cafer Erol and after exchanging passionate  stories of food, she literally held our hand and walked us up the hill, via narrow streets, all the way to Ciya.  There, she introduced as vegetarians to Zeynep Çaliskan (part owner and wife of Musa Dağdeviren) and ordered for us.  The exquisiteness and the flavours and freshness of every ingredient were astounding throughout our entire meal.

Opening in 1987, the excllelence quickly expanded.  There are now 3 of thier restaurants on the same road –   Ciya Sofrasi, Ciya Kebap & Ciya Kebab II (where you can get about 40 different kabob flavours!)

Chef/ proprietor Musa Dağdeviren has amazing knowledge in the various traditions of Anatolian, Ottoman, Azerbaijani, Georgian, Turkish, Seldjukian, Armenian, Ottoman, Syrian, and Jewish foods.  He has lectured at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa, California and written articles in about by every major food publication – worldwide.

Fortunately for many of us chef Musa and his lovely wife Zeynep Çaliskan have decided to share with the world the results of his extensive research in the culinary traditions of this vast region.  This is distilled into a seasonal publication called Yemek ve Kültür (Food and Culture) The Magazine is beautifully designed with traditional folkloric illustrations

Highlights for us included:

  • Eggplant and Lentil Stew with Pomegranate Molasses
  • Cheese and spiced apricot phyllo ‘cigars’
  • Stuffed dried eggplant
  • Carrot and pistachio fritters with chili yoghurt sauce
  • Oregano Thyme tea – as a digestif;
  • grape extract
  • “lahmacuns” – a kind of thin-crust pizza baked with mince, onions and tomatoes
Ciya_016 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   lavaş bread
Ciya_020 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
Buda (wheat meze),  Sikma Kofte  (bulgur onion and yogurt dip)
Ciya_021 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   Sikma Kofte  (bulgur onion and yogurt dip), Seaweed, Mahammara (red peppers and walnuts dip), Moa Mara (curry pasta),  Risvat otu yogurt bulgur soup
Ciya_017 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   Nebrus (keme mushroom kebab),  Zaffron cheese, Sibma kefta (bulgur balls)
Ciya_023 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
Ciya_024 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food   Black mulberry extract
green elixir of mint, apple & parsley
Ciya_004 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
above from left Zeynep Çaliskan & Yonca Erol from Cafér Erol
Ciya_010 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
Yemek ve Kültür
Ciya_009 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
Yemek ve Kültür
Ciya_006 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food
Yemekve Kültür

Ciya_025 Çiya  -  Istmbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Vegetarian Turkey Istanbul Food

2 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy

Şekerci Cafer Erol – Istanbul, Turkey

8 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   (above photo Kapat – pistachio paste © Şekerci Cafer Erol)

Şekerci (Confectioner) Cafer Erol

(90)  216 337 1103 Yasa Cad. No:19
Kadiköy, Istanbul, Turkey

OPEN HOURS:
7:30am  10:00 pm – daily

Yonca Erol  is foremost a charming woman; she is also a member of the Cafer Erol family, and the manager of  the Şekerci Cafer Erol.  Founded in 1807 this magnificent confectioner store as expanded to five branches around Istanbul.   Yonca was more then happy to chat and lecture us on the different techniques used in the production of their wonderful sweets.  After a thorough tasting and aquiring a variety of gifts for friends and family – Yonca walked us all the way to Ciya, her favorite food spot in Kadiköy (but more about that on a different post :).

2 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   (above photo mix akide candy © Şekerci Cafer Erol)

Cafer Erol  is lined with widow refrigerators holding delectable looing chocolates, filo pastries, halvas, honey cakes, marzipan and a 100 other sweets.  On top of beautiful large glass jars with brass tops, are filled Ottoman sweets.

One such is the “Akide” pulled sugar.  The Erol’s are flavored with honey, real fruit extracts, fresh spices and nuts.  To the untrained eye the might seem like ordinary candy flavored with synthetic components and lots of unhealthy corn syrup; but these confections are exceptional due to technique and the quality of the fresh ingredients.

Our favorite Akide was the bergamot. This candy is made according to the old traditions –  cooking the sugar in copper cauldrons over wood fire to a specific temperatures.  Once it starts cooling and before it fully hardens the flavors are added, and the sugar is pulled.  This is what gives the candy it’s outer shine. We brought some home in some of the fantastical gift containers on offer; a fez hat and sultans’ turbans as well as copper bowls

6 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   (above photo Turkish delight with hazelnut © Şekerci Cafer Erol)

Turkish Delight, or Lokum, is a sweet dating from the 17th century.  It was initially made with honey, molasses and flour.  Through times eventual erosion, the basic components changed to refined sugar and starch; to help it acquire a silkier texture.  Cafer Erol produces about thirty different flavors of this national sweet.

Be sure to swing by, say hello to Yonca and to give a little gift to your sweet tooth!

14 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   (above photo Turkish delight with walnut © Şekerci Cafer Erol)
3 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   (above photo akide candy © Şekerci Cafer Erol)
4 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy    (above photo fruit jelly © Şekerci Cafer Erol)
sekerci-cafer-erol_005 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   Şekerpare – honey cake

sekerci-cafer-erol_003 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy

 sekerci-cafer-erol_002 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy   Bergamot oil akide candy

sekerci-cafer-erol_001 Şekerci Cafer Erol  -  Istanbul, Turkey Istanbul Turkey  Turkey Kadikoy Istanbul Candy